Field
Yoho National Park, Kicking Horse Valley
Field is a historic townsite at 1,256 m (4,121 ft) in the floor of the Kicking Horse Pass valley, within Yoho National Park. It serves as a geological and administrative hub—the gateway to the Burgess Shale and base for the Spiral Tunnels.
Railway origins. Field was established in 1883–1884 as a “Type A” divisional point for the Canadian Pacific Railway; locomotives were serviced here and pusher engines added to assist trains on the Big Hill. The town was named after Cyrus West Field, promoter of the first Atlantic telegraph cable, whom the CPR honoured in 1884 hoping to secure his investment. Mount Stephen House (1886) opened as a mandatory meal stop—the Big Hill was too steep for heavy dining cars—and grew into a luxury resort, attracting mountaineers and European royalty and marking the birth of mountain tourism in Yoho.
The Big Hill and Spiral Tunnels. The stretch east of Field featured a 4.5% grade; the steepest main-line in North America. Derailments were frequent. In 1909 the CPR replaced the direct climb with the Spiral Tunnels—two circular tunnels through Cathedral Mountain and Mount Ogden—reducing the grade to 2.2%.
Geography. Field sits in the Kicking Horse River valley, surrounded by limestone and shale walls. The Kicking Horse River (a heritage river) carries milky turquoise rock flour from glacial erosion. Mount Stephen (3,199 m) dominates the eastern skyline; Mount Burgess (2,599 m), named for the Burgess Shale and once featured on the Canadian ten-dollar bill, rises to the north. The town is the trailhead for guided hikes to the Burgess Shale and the Mt. Stephen Trilobite Beds; ice climbers use the “Waterloo” and “Carlsberg Column” routes on Mount Stephen.
Life in a park townsite. Field is managed by Parks Canada; there is no private land ownership. Residents lease from the Crown under strict environmental and architectural guidelines. The “need to reside” clause restricts housing to those who work in the park, retirees who worked there five consecutive years, or business operators whose presence is necessary. Population: approximately 160–170 permanent residents. No traffic lights, chain stores, or malls; a tranquil atmosphere where the Kicking Horse River and passing freight trains dominate.
Nearby. Emerald Lake (8 km) and the Natural Bridge over the Kicking Horse are within 20 minutes. Takakkaw Falls (373 m total height), one of Canada’s highest waterfalls, is accessed via Yoho Valley Road (seasonal). Fuel up in Golden (25 min west) or Lake Louise (20 min east)—there are no gas stations in Field. A Parks Canada Discovery Pass is required for vehicles stopping in the park.